Hi Pascal @forliteur

I can’t find the part BBC 5587 in the documentation – could you please describe the part and where it is located.

Laurence

Hi Robin @woodsmoke

Thanks for your input.

It’s difficult to add information alongside the topic/reply discussion because there is little room to do so and hard to decide what to add and what not to.

However, what I can do is have a look at enhancing the Profile Page that you route to when you click on the member’s link.

I’ve some ideas, but will give it some thought 🙂

Laurence

Hi Robin @woodsmoke and John @bleasie

I have just this minute launched the revamp of the Forums for all members. There is a new navigation route via the Discussions option on the main menu bar. This has the following features :

1/ Just click on the Discussions button and you are taken to the list of all discussions (topics/replies) that have been posted on our Club website

2/ Hover over the Discussions button and you see a drop down list
==> Top 10 Most Recent Discussions
==> All discussion topics (same as just clicking on the Discussions button
==> Then the specific Discussion forums – enabling you to focus on just Technical discussions

I’ve standardised these views for all logged in Club Members.

Laurence

Hi Greg @gregsouter

Have you managed to make any progress on this ?

Laurence

Hi Thorleifur

I have some of the chrome parts from when I swapped things around to get my cabriolet up together, but they’re rusty.

I’ll see if I can put together a complete set for left and right side.

Laurence

Hi Dave @davejones

I had exactly the symptons you have described with my own 3.6 Cabriolet last year – Slow running seemed to be a random thing that the car either decided it wanted to do or not on a whim. Made driving it very hard and unpredicatble – sometimes needing to be sat at traffic lights bliping the accelerator like a boy racer to keep it going and others the car being perfectly behaved.

We swapped a the same sensors as yourself, with similar results to your own – it would work for a while then start messing aroudn again. Then one day the car wouldn’t start at all -dead 🙁

Subsequently we HAD to change the ECU to get the car going and borrowed one – and all the random yet persistent slow running issues went away. Replacing the ECU was not on the list of things to try, but I wish it had had been right at the start.

I’ve met a couple of other folk who have had similar problems and it does seem to be that if you have this random slow running issue that its cause by the ECU – when it’s a consistent and persistent slow running problem then it seems changing the sensors does fix the problem.

I’d be interested to know if others in the Club have had the same experience.

Hope this helps,

Laurence

Hi Greg @gregsouter

I don’t have the answer myself, but I have asked my local Jaguar Independent Garage to see if they can help. Below is my recollection of how it was described to me.

There is a cable, like a curly data cable, that comes from the rear axle/rear transmission and disappears into the boot area. Within the boot area there are two electronic modules, the smaller of which is the module that translates the pulse coming into it (via that cable) into a voltage. This is then taken as a wire to the dashboard and it is that voltage that gives you the speedo reading.

This means that you’ll only get the voltage out of the electronic module in the boot when the car’s moving and it’s busy translating the pulse from the rear axle.

A thought, do you have cruise control and does it work – the reason for this question is that the cruise control works from the same pulse translation provided by the electronic module in the boot. If cruise control works and the speedo doesn’t then it’s likely that the speedo is broken.

Not sure if the above is of any help, but might lead you to eliminate a few things.

Laurence

Hi Martin @ball

The Targa clips are bolted through to captive nuts that are on clips – the nuts are not spot welded in place. This allows the nut to have a certain amount of ‘float’ and therefore enabling you to adjust the position of the clip.

THe hex bolts often spin because the little retaining clip holding the nut in place slips off and just spins round and round with the nut.

So, what can you do…

Well first thing is Be Very Careful With Those Clips – they’re old and often very brittle and quite a challenge to replace.

Unfortunately there is no way to get to the captive nut without removing the trim, but if you need to do this then here’s what you need to do

1/ remove the sun visors and it’s retaining clip – again take care as can be brittle. These simply unscrew

2/ remove the rear view mirror – this is cast with some odd alloy so if you keep it supported until all screws out otherwise you’ll break a corner off.

3/ remove the hex bolts holding the clips in place – drill out the hex bolts that are spinning (which might be fun as will try spining as fast as your drill bit)

4/ remove the cover from the ‘A’ pillar (that’s the pillar down the side of the windscreen)- two screws with dish washers

5/ you’ll now be able to remove the screw that holds the padded cover that runs along the top of the door opening. This is an aluminium panel covered in roof lining.

6/ with care now you should be able to slide out of place the panel that goes across the front of the car (where you’ve just removed the sun visor, mirror and catches.

Now you’ll be able to see the cage that the retaining nuts are in, and be able to rectify with replacement clip retained nuts.

To put things back together it can be a bit of a pain getting the hex nuts to re-engage with the retained nuts (as the nuts do ‘float’ about quite a bit). I got round this by ‘lightly packing’ some tissue around the retained nuts to hold them roughly centrally in the slot. Once the Hex Bolt was engaged then it was quite easy to move the clip to adjust thier position as the tissue moved.

Hope above helps,

Laurence

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